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Rules for growing Winter tomatoes

The Winter tomato is a sought-after variety, gaining popularity due to its large fruits, good productivity, and versatility. This variety is perfect for both fresh consumption and for preparing various dishes and preserves. With proper and timely care, it will reward you with generous, high-quality harvests.

Description of the bush

The Siberian Collection tomato is a determinate, general-purpose variety. The bushes grow up to 150 cm in height and have a robust structure.

Each cluster produces 3 to 4 fruits, and the main stem can develop up to 5 clusters. The plant's inflorescences are complex, beginning to form after the eighth leaf.

Main qualities of fruits

Tomatoes have a number of attractive characteristics. Each tomato weighs between 150 and 300 grams, and in some cases can reach three to four times that amount. They are bright red, with no green spot near the stem, and have a flattened, round shape.

Description

Taste and purpose

These tomatoes have an excellent flavor thanks to their dense, meaty, sugary pulp with few seeds and low moisture content. This variety is versatile: suitable for making sauces, canning, and eating fresh.

Characteristics

Winter is a mid-season variety with a ripening period of 115-120 days. It is characterized by long and uniform fruiting, allowing for harvesting right up until the first frost.

The bushes are successfully grown both in open ground and in plastic or permanent greenhouses. The variety is highly marketable, with yields reaching 6 kg per plant.

Growing and care

To cultivate this crop, it's important to create optimal conditions and ensure proper care. When planning your agricultural practices, consider its mid-season maturity and large fruit size.

Critical parameters for successful cultivation
  • ✓ The optimal soil temperature for transplanting seedlings should not be below +15°C, which is critical for preventing stress in plants.
  • ✓ The distance between bushes should be at least 50 cm to ensure sufficient space for growth and air circulation.

Soil preparation and planting:

  • In the fall, fertilize the beds with humus or compost, and in the spring, add mineral fertilizers. The soil should be loose and fertile, with a neutral pH.
  • Sow seeds for seedlings 55-60 days before transplanting. Pre-soak them in a growth stimulator or potassium permanganate solution to disinfect.
  • After 2-3 true leaves appear, transplant (replant) the plants into separate containers.
  • Transplant when the soil warms to 15°C and the risk of frost has passed. Plant seedlings 50x50 cm apart.

Growing and care

With regular care, you'll be able to get a high-quality harvest. Follow standard agricultural practices:

  • Water the bushes regularly, at the roots, using warm, settled water. Avoid overwatering to prevent the development of fungal diseases.
  • Apply the first fertilizer two weeks after transplanting (nitrogen fertilizer or mullein infusion). During flowering and fruit set, use potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Regularly alternate organic and mineral fertilizers.
  • Train plants with 1-2 stems, removing side shoots (side shoots). For better air circulation and stability, tie the bushes to supports.
  • A layer of mulch (straw, humus) helps retain moisture and prevents weed growth.
Tomato Care Warnings
  • × Avoid overwatering the soil, as this can lead to the development of fungal diseases, despite recommendations for regular watering.
  • × Do not use cold water for watering, this can cause stress to plants and reduce their productivity.

Growing and care 2

If all recommendations are followed, the Winter variety will delight you with good productivity and high-quality fruits.

Treatment and prevention of diseases and pests

The crop is characterized by high commercial value. However, to maintain plant health and obtain a good harvest, it is important to implement preventative measures and promptly combat diseases and pests.

Comparison of disease prevention methods
Method Efficiency Frequency of use
Treatment with Fitosporin High Every 10-14 days
Treatment with ash infusion Average Once a month
Treatment with copper sulfate High Before landing

Common problems and how to deal with them:

Disease/Pest

Symptoms

Prevention

Treatment

Late blight Brown spots on leaves, stems and fruits. Ventilate the greenhouse and avoid excess humidity. Apply fungicides (Fitosporin, HOM) every 10-14 days. Treat the soil before planting with a copper sulfate solution (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). At the first signs, use Ridomil Gold or Quadris.
Gray mold Weeping grey spots on leaves and stems. Maintain humidity and avoid overwatering. Spray the plants with an ash infusion (200 g per 10 liters of water) or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Remove the affected parts of the plants and treat the plantings with Switch.
Powdery mildew White powdery coating on leaves. Maintain a moderate watering regime. Ventilate the greenhouse regularly. Use Topaz or Skor preparations.
Aphid A raid of small insects on leaves and shoots. Plant marigolds, garlic, or calendula near your tomatoes to repel aphids. Spray the plants with a soap solution (50 g of laundry soap per 10 liters of water). Use insecticides (Aktara, Fitoverm).
Spider mite A thin web on the leaves, their yellowing and wilting. Maintain optimal air humidity. Inspect the bushes regularly. Treat the crop with Actellic or Kleschevit.
Whitefly Small white insects on the underside of leaves, yellowing and curling of leaves. Set sticky traps. Use biological products (Verticillin). Use insecticides (Confidor, Iskra).

Pros and cons

To avoid possible difficulties, it is important to study the characteristics of the variety, its advantages and disadvantages in advance.

versatility in application;
high yield;
large-fruited;
dense, fleshy pulp with excellent taste;
absence of a green spot near the stalk;
resistance to adverse weather conditions;
friendly and long-lasting fruiting;
attractive appearance;
Possibility of growing in greenhouses and open ground.
requires regular pinching and shaping;
high nutrient requirements;
tendency to fungal diseases with excess moisture;
the need for garter;
mid-season ripening period;
in open ground it is sensitive to sudden temperature changes;
requires frequent watering with warm water only;
the difficulty of transporting large fruits over long distances.

Harvest

The main negative quality that many gardeners consider is that large fruits are sometimes prone to cracking if not watered correctly.

Reviews

Ekaterina, 37 years old, Novosibirsk.
I've been growing Winter tomatoes for two seasons now, and they've become one of my favorites. The tomatoes are large, fleshy, and richly flavored—perfect for salads and sauces. I was pleased with the yield: I harvested about 5 kg of excellent tomatoes from one plant. Staking the shoots is a bit of a hassle, but the results are worth it!
Andrey, 54 years old, Tyumen.
I planted Winter tomatoes for the first time this spring and was delighted. The tomatoes are growing smooth, bright red, and blemish-free, with firm flesh and virtually no seeds. The harvest was enough for both eating and canning, and the tomatoes hold their shape perfectly in jars. The only downside is that you need to monitor the humidity to prevent disease.
Marina, 45 years old, Krasnoyarsk.
I really liked the Winter tomatoes for their versatility. The large tomatoes are great for slicing, while the smaller ones are perfect for preserves. The bushes grow tall and strong, so caring for them isn't difficult, aside from staking the shoots. I grew them in a greenhouse and harvested them until late fall, with the fruits retaining their flavor and quality even in cool weather.

The Winter tomato variety is a unique choice for gardeners who value not only high productivity but also long-term storage. Thanks to their thick skin and resistance to mechanical damage, the tomatoes retain their freshness and flavor for many months. With proper care, they can strengthen the plant's immune system and yield bountiful harvests.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the optimal humidity level to prevent fungal diseases?

Can iodine be used for disease prevention and how to dilute it?

What companion plants are best to plant nearby to protect against pests?

What is the minimum pot size needed for seedlings before transplanting?

Is it possible to speed up the ripening of fruits without losing flavor?

What type of support is preferable for bushes 150 cm high?

What can I use instead of mullein for the first feeding if it is not available?

How to determine if there is too much nitrogen in the soil?

How many fruits should be left on a bunch to obtain maximum size?

Is it possible to grow without pinching out the side shoots and how will this affect the yield?

What temperature is critical for fruit set?

How to prepare seeds collected by yourself?

What natural antiseptics are effective against late blight?

What is the interval between fertilizing during the fruiting period?

Can whey be used for processing and in what proportion?

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