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White grape Slava – what are its features?

The Slava hybrid is considered one of the best early varieties. It boasts large, rich, and sweet berries, making it an excellent choice for both beginning gardeners and large commercial vineyards.

History of selection and authors

It was created by crossing various species, the names of which remain unknown. Ukrainian breeder Nikolai Pavlovich Vishnevetsky worked on its development.

Description of the variety

This variety is used for technical purposes. It has an alternative name, Pleros. It is popular with both novice and experienced gardeners.

Grape

Bushes

A healthy, vigorous growing bush is covered with medium-density, rich green leaves. This promotes good air circulation and prevents disease.

Berries

They are oval in shape and white in color. Each grape weighs approximately 12 grams. They have soft skin, which gives them a pleasant flavor. They contain 2-4 seeds. The pulp has a fleshy texture.

Berries

Clusters

They are characterized by a cylindrical-conical shape and moderate compactness. The weight of a single cluster varies from 500 g to 1.5 kg. Larger specimens are occasionally encountered.

Clusters

Taste

The berries have a rich flavor without any pronounced accents. Sweetness predominates, making the acidity almost imperceptible. Light hints of Muscat are noticeable. The variety is suitable for fresh consumption, compotes, and raisins. Some winemakers make homemade table wine.

Brief description

Slava grapes stand out not only for their excellent taste but also for their attractive appearance. The bushes grow vigorously upward, so understanding planting techniques and other nuances is crucial.

Drought resistance, frost resistance

It can tolerate temperatures down to -24°C, but requires additional protection to prevent roots from freezing. It is drought-intolerant. Insufficient watering can lead to root desiccation and, ultimately, death.

Resistance to diseases and pests

Experienced winegrowers highly rate the variety's resistance to diseases and pests. However, they recommend preventative measures to maintain plant health.

Pollination, flowering period and ripening time

Pollination is not required, as it produces flowers of both sexes. Ripening occurs relatively quickly: harvesting can begin as early as the first half of August. The vine reaches full maturity in 100 days.

Productivity and fruiting

It is known for its abundant fruiting. With proper care, a single bush can yield up to 20 kg of berries.

Chemical composition of berries

The caloric value of 100 grams of grapes is 60 kcal. The chemical composition is presented below:

  • proteins: 0.70 g;
  • fats: 0.16 g;
  • carbohydrates: 18 g;
  • Vitamin C: 10 mg;
  • Vitamin A: 22 mcg;
  • Folic acid: 2 mcg;
  • potassium: 191 mg;
  • calcium: 10 mg;
  • phosphorus: 20 mg;
  • iron: 0.36 mg;
  • magnesium: 7 mg.
The fruits contain 20 g of sugar and 80 g of water.

Advantages and disadvantages

It has numerous positive qualities. Before planting, it's important to consider the negative aspects of the variety. The Slava grape variety has the following advantages:

early ripening;
no additional pollination required;
resistance to damage during long-term transportation;
the berries do not crack and remain intact during harvesting;
high level of productivity.
easy rooting;
large and sweet fruits;
good disease resistance;
frost resistance.
No official deficiencies were identified.

Landing

Grapes are most often propagated on rootstocks, but planting in the ground is also possible. If the root system is too dry, soak the seedling first. By following all planting and care guidelines, you can achieve a high yield:

  • Planting dates. Autumn or spring. In spring, wait for consistently warm weather (+15°C). In autumn, plant no later than two weeks before the first frost, when the soil temperature is at least +10°C.
  • Selecting a location. The site should be well-lit. Protect the north side with a fence from drafts and cold winds. Avoid placing large trees close to the site.
  • Selection of planting material. Buy seedlings from reputable stores or experienced gardeners. Check the root system and avoid weak bushes with signs of disease. Trim off excess roots.
  • Site preparation. Fertilize the soil before planting. Use ash, superphosphate, and sand.
Critical parameters for a successful landing
  • ✓ The seedling planting depth should be at least 50 cm to ensure stability and access to moisture.
  • ✓ The distance between bushes should be 2-2.5 m to provide sufficient space for root growth and air circulation.

Landing

Dig holes measuring 60 x 60 cm. Avoid direct contact of the root system with the fertilizer by creating a small mound of soil. Carefully place the seedlings in the holes, fill with soil, and compact.

Growing and care

With proper care, the crop produces fruit well. The shrubs are easy to grow, but basic care is required to achieve excellent results:

  • Watering. Provide regular care—every two weeks. Water should be sufficient to saturate the soil to a depth of 40-50 cm. Water young seedlings more frequently—once a week. A lack of moisture can lead to root death.
    Do not water the crop during flowering and berry coloring to avoid loss of sugar content in the fruit.
  • Fertilizers. To ensure a bountiful harvest, fertilizing is required. Apply fertilizer three times a season at specific times: before flowering, after leaf formation, and before fruit set. Use organic fertilizers, adding manure to the soil to provide nutrition and oxygen to the root system.
  • Trimming. In the first year of fruiting, it's enough to keep just one cluster. In the second year, pay attention to the overall condition of the bush: if it's weak, again leave only a small number of clusters, while if the vine is actively growing and there's a risk of fattening, there should be 3-4 clusters per vertical shoot.
Warnings when leaving
  • × Avoid over-watering the soil, as this can lead to the development of fungal diseases.
  • × Do not use fresh manure for fertilizing, as it can burn the root system.

Growing and care

In southern regions, no special winter preparation is required. If temperatures drop significantly, provide additional cover. Shoots can be buried in soil or covered with straw or spruce branches.

Pest and disease control

It has moderate resistance to mildew and oidium, requiring three preventative measures. The general treatment plan for the entire bush is universal and helps maintain the cleanliness of both the bunches and the vines:

  • The first treatment is carried out when 4-5 leaves are formed on each shoot, using 1% Bordeaux mixture.
  • The second treatment is carried out a few days before flowering. Use Ridomil Gold for mildew (25 g/10 l of water) and Falcon (5 ml/10 l) or Topaz (2 ml/10 l) for powdery mildew.
  • The third treatment, repeating the second, is carried out at the pea stage.

Some rules and useful tips:

  • If your grapes have been affected by spider mites or strawberry mites in previous seasons, add an acaricide to each treatment. Suitable products include Actellic, Sanmite, Omite, Nissoran, and Neoron.
  • For treatments, use a tank mixture of preparations that are mixed in a sprayer before treatment.
  • A month before harvest, suspend all treatments. During this period, you can either accept the presence of certain diseases or use safe remedies, such as pharmacy potassium iodide (2-3 g/10 l of water) or, in extreme cases, Horus, at intervals of 7-10 days.

Spider mites are easy to spot—pimples and fine webbing appear on the leaves. Powdery mildew causes a white powder to form on the leaves and berries. Mildew causes oily yellow spots on the leaves.

Unique characteristics for identifying pests
  • ✓ Spider mites leave fine webbing and pimples on the leaves.
  • ✓ Oidium appears as a white powder on leaves and berries.

Reproduction

To obtain several new grapevines, the simplest method is to use cuttings. This is especially convenient during autumn pruning, when a significant amount of material can be obtained.

reproduction

The process is quite simple: trim the cuttings to 3-4 buds, seal them in a bag, and then store them in the refrigerator or cellar. Root them in the spring.

If you need to get 1-2 new plants, use vegetative propagation. The procedure is simple: bury the shoot, keep the soil moist, and the vine will root successfully.

Reviews

Ksenia, 36 years old, Krasnodar.
The Slava grape variety was a real discovery for me. I planted several vines in my garden, and the results exceeded my expectations. The bunches were large, juicy, and delicious. The plant required minimal care, and I reaped a bountiful harvest.
Radmila, 48 years old, Moscow.
It lives up to its name. It boasts excellent disease resistance and yet produces berries that impress with their flavor. The dense clusters of grapes create a beautiful display in the garden, and the grapes taste simply amazing—sweet with a hint of tartness. I recommend Slava to all lovers of grape cultivation.
Georgy, 41 years old, Volgograd.
My experience growing Slava left somewhat mixed impressions. Although the yield was decent and the berries tasted quite satisfying, I encountered some difficulties with care. The plant turned out to be more demanding than I expected. Despite this, the results were good, but perhaps I would have preferred a more resilient and less fussy variety for myself.

Grapes are not only a beautiful addition to the garden but also a valuable plant, delighting with juicy and delicious bunches. Among the many varieties, the noble and popular Slava hybrid stands out. It's important to understand the growing, care, and characteristics of this grape to ensure a bountiful harvest.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the optimal watering interval for this variety in dry regions?

What rootstocks are best suited for the Slava hybrid?

How does overloading a bush with crops affect the quality of berries?

Which neighboring varieties improve pollination of the Slava hybrid?

What type of pruning is preferable for maximum yield?

What micronutrients are critical for increasing the sugar content of berries?

How to protect roots from freezing at temperatures below -24C?

Which fungicides are most effective for disease prevention?

Can I grow in containers and what is the minimum volume?

How long can berries be stored in the refrigerator without losing their flavor?

What soils are absolutely not suitable for this hybrid?

What is the optimal time to pick berries for wine?

What pests most often attack this variety and how to deal with them?

What is the minimum age of a bush for the first full harvest?

Can the Slava hybrid be used for vertical gardening?

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