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The ancient Kremlin peach variety – features and growing rules

The Kremlin peach is a unique plant that has long been popular among gardeners and fruit lovers. It combines an attractive appearance, excellent taste, and high productivity. It can be used not only to enjoy fresh fruits but also to create a variety of preserves for the winter. Proper care is essential.

Information about origin

Created by renowned Soviet breeder Ivan Nikolaevich Ryabov, who developed numerous varieties, his work took place at the Nikitsky Botanical Garden, where for nearly a century, scientists have been striving to develop versatile and easy-to-care-for peach varieties.

Peach

Kremlin was introduced in the 1950s. Two American varieties, Rochester and Elberta, were used in its creation.

The idea of ​​a peach

Before growing this crop, it's important to study its characteristics. This variety is noteworthy for its appearance, early fruiting, high-quality fruit, and strong immunity.

The appearance of the tree

The plant is tall, reaching up to 5 m in height. It grows quite quickly, forming a wide, branched crown with an inverse conical shape.

The appearance of the tree

Fruits and their taste characteristics

The fruit is round, sometimes slightly oval. Peaches vary in size, weighing between 100 and 200 grams.

Fruits and their taste characteristics

Other distinctive features:

  • The skin is covered with velvety fuzz, bright yellow in color, shading to orange in places. As the fruit ripens, it develops a blush and dark red color.
  • The pulp is of medium density, elastic, with a delicate fibrous texture, dark yellow in color, and good juiciness.
  • The pit is medium-sized, and its detachability depends on the fruit's ripeness. In fully ripe specimens, the pit is easily removed, but in unripe ones, this is more difficult.
  • The taste is excellent: juiciness is combined with a rich sweet taste and a slight sourness.

Kremlin peaches are most often eaten fresh, but they can also be used to make juices, preserves, compotes, and jams. Prepare these preserves immediately after harvesting, as the fruit's physical properties deteriorate over time.

Ripening period and yield

This is an early-bearing variety, with the first harvest appearing as early as 3-4 years after planting. This mid-season tree typically bears fruit between August 11th and 16th, although this period varies depending on weather conditions. A single plant yields approximately 40 kg.

Ripening period and yield

Self-fertility and pollinators

The flowers are highly decorative, rose-shaped. The tree blooms in midsummer, a process that lasts about a week, sometimes extending to 10-12 days. The variety is self-fertile and requires no pollinators.

Frost resistance and the need for shelter

The crop adapts well to various climatic conditions and tolerates temperature fluctuations, including recurrent spring frosts down to -6-7°C. It is grown in private gardens in central Russia, but its winter hardiness is not particularly high: it can withstand temperatures as low as -27°C.

In regions with harsh winters, the tree requires winter shelter. In the fall, mulch the area around the trunk, install a frame of slats around the trunk, bend and tie the crown, and cover the entire structure with burlap or agrofibre. Covering the tree is complicated by its height and spreading crown.

Resistance to diseases and pests

It is characterized by strong immunity and is rarely affected by such common stone fruit diseases as leaf curl. It is resistant to clasterosporium.

However, powdery mildew infestation is possible. If this occurs, promptly remove affected branches and leaves.

Kremlin may be susceptible to pest attacks, but with pruning, mulching, and preventative spraying, you can prevent these problems or minimize the damage caused by insects.

How to plant correctly?

Growing this crop is a simple task that even beginners can handle. However, it's important to follow certain guidelines to ensure the plant thrives and produces fruit.

Critical soil parameters for planting
  • ✓ The soil pH level should be strictly within 6.0-7.0 for optimal nutrient absorption.
  • ✓ The depth of groundwater is at least 1.5 m to prevent rotting of the root system.

Requirements

Choose a sunny, well-ventilated site protected from northerly winds. Peaches prefer light, fertile soils with a neutral or slightly acidic pH. Loamy or sandy loam soils are ideal.

Poor drainage and standing water can lead to root rot, so avoid areas with a high water table.

Suitable timing

The optimal time is late September or early October, about a month before the onset of permanent frost. This allows the tree to establish roots before winter.

Planting is acceptable in early spring, when the soil has thawed but the buds on the trees have not yet opened. This is usually late March or early April.

Preparing a hole for a seedling

Start the procedure early. Follow the instructions:

  1. Dig a hole 70-80 cm in diameter and 50-60 cm deep.
  2. Mix the top fertile layer of soil with compost or humus (10-20 kg), add 200 g of superphosphate and 100-150 g of potassium salt.
  3. If the soil is acidic, add 200-300 g of wood ash.
Place a drainage layer of pebbles or broken bricks (10-15 cm) at the bottom of the hole.

Landing algorithm

Before planting, soak the seedling's roots in water for 2-3 hours. If they are damaged, trim them back to healthy tissue. Next, follow these steps:

  1. In the center of the hole, form a small mound of soil mixture and place the seedling on it so that the root collar is 3-5 cm above ground level.
  2. Spread the roots and carefully fill the hole with the prepared soil mixture, lightly compacting the soil around it.
  3. Water the seedling generously with 20-30 liters of water. After it's absorbed, cover the soil with mulch (peat, humus, or straw).

landing

If the seedling is tall and unstable, install a stake nearby and tie the plant with soft twine.

Subtleties of care

The plant requires regular watering, especially during periods of active growth, flowering, and fruit formation. Water the tree every 10-14 days, depending on weather conditions and soil moisture. On average, a mature tree requires 40-50 liters. Young seedlings require about 20-30 liters.

Subtleties of care

Perform simple agricultural practices:

  • Water the peach tree at the base, avoiding water on the trunk and leaves to reduce the risk of disease. Use settled water, preferably warmed in the sun.
  • In early spring, before bud break, apply nitrogen fertilizer (such as ammonium nitrate) at a rate of 30-40 g per square meter of the tree's trunk circle. This stimulates shoot growth and development.
  • During flowering and fruit set, use complex mineral fertilizers with a high phosphorus and potassium content. These support tree health and improve fruit quality. Superphosphate (20-30 g) and potassium salt (10-15 g) are good choices.
  • After harvesting, add organic matter—compost or humus (5-10 kg per tree). This will help restore the tree's strength after fruiting and prepare it for winter.
  • To increase yield and disease resistance, use fertilizers with microelements (boron, zinc, magnesium) every 2-3 years.
  • Loosen the soil around the peach tree 3-4 times per season, after watering and rainfall. This improves root aeration and helps retain moisture. Work to a depth of 5-7 cm near the trunk and 10-12 cm away from it to avoid damaging the roots.
  • At the same time, remove weeds that compete with the tree for moisture and nutrients.
  • Use organic materials such as straw, hay, peat, compost, or humus. These procedures help retain moisture, reduce weed growth, and improve soil structure.

Apply a 5-10 cm layer of mulch around the tree trunk, leaving a small space around the trunk to prevent rot. Renew the mulch layer as it decomposes, usually once or twice per season.

Crown formation technology

The Kremlin peach variety is a tall plant and requires timely and competent care. shaping. Please observe certain requirements:

  • Formation of a bush crown. This involves removing all but three or four shoots that grow from the lower buds. These reach full strength within two years and bear fruit for about three years. After this, trim them back to the root collar.
    Next, leave about seven of the most developed shoots from the summer growth. Create a configuration of five fruiting shoots and three replacement shoots.
  • Creation of a sparse-tiered crown. This method involves creating a 30-40 cm tall standard tree and preserving 5-6 shoots. The first three shoots, spaced 40 cm apart, form the first tier. Remove the side shoots from the standard tree, but leave the lateral growth of the skeletal branches intact.
  • Formation of a cup-shaped crown. This is the most popular variety for home gardening. The standard should be approximately 35 cm tall. Remove the main stem and side branches. Focus on shaping the crown with four main branches spaced 15 cm apart.
Errors in crown formation
  • × Pruning should not be carried out during the period of active sap flow (early spring), as this may weaken the tree.
  • × Avoid excessive pruning of shoots, which may result in reduced yield.

Crown formation technology

Additional types of pruning:

  • Sanitary. Remove dried and diseased shoots, then burn them.
  • Rejuvenating. Performed on older trees to renew the crown. This pruning involves cupping the tree.
  • Regulatory. It is necessary to maintain the productivity of the tree and involves removing some of the fruit-bearing branches to avoid exposing the skeletal branches.
  • Restorative. Use to increase fruiting volumes in case of mechanical damage to the crown.

Regardless of the type of pruning, cover all cut areas with garden pitch.

Harvesting and storage

The fruit ripens in mid-August. Pick the fruit when it's soft to the touch but still firm enough. Fully ripe fruit can quickly become overripe and lose its commercial value, so pay close attention to the timing of harvesting.

Unique signs of fruit ripeness
  • ✓ The appearance of a characteristic aroma, which is absent in unripe fruits.
  • ✓ Easy separation of the stalk from the branch with minimal effort.

Harvesting and storage

Follow the recommendations:

  • Carefully remove the fruit, grasping it with one hand and supporting it from below to avoid damage. Use scissors or pruning shears with a stem. This will help prevent mechanical damage to both the fruit and the tree.
  • Because peaches may ripen unevenly, harvest several times at intervals of 4-7 days.
  • Carefully inspect the fruit, discarding any damaged or diseased ones. Do not wash them before storing to avoid excess moisture, which can promote rotting.
  • Store the harvest at 0-4°C. Under these conditions, it will stay fresh for 1-2 weeks. Refrigerate it to extend its shelf life.
  • The optimal humidity level is 90-95%. Place the fruits in plastic containers with ventilation holes or in paper-lined baskets. Avoid overcrowding to prevent the fruits from pressing against each other and becoming damaged.
  • Check regularly for signs of rot or damage. Remove damaged specimens to prevent the rot from spreading to others.
  • If you plan to store peaches longer, freeze them: wash, dry, and remove the pits. Plunge them in boiling water for 1-2 minutes, then quickly cool them in ice water. This will preserve the flavor and texture.
    Place the fruit in a single layer on a tray and freeze until firm. Then pack into airtight containers or freezer bags.

Proper collection and storage of cropsPressing peaches will help preserve their taste and quality, allowing you to enjoy them for a long time.

Positive and negative qualities

Carefully consider the advantages and disadvantages of this variety before growing a seedling in your garden. The Kremlin peach has many advantages:

high yield and early fruiting;
excellent taste of fruits;
good adaptability to various climatic conditions;
resistance to major diseases;
self-fertility, which does not require additional pollinators;
decorativeness and long flowering.

Some gardeners note the variety's disadvantages as low frost resistance, the need for winter shelter, and uneven fruit size.

Reviews

Natalia, 42 years old, Moscow region.
I was pleasantly surprised by the Kremlin peach. It has a wonderful flavor—juicy and sweet with a hint of tartness. I have a small garden, and I was pleased that this tree doesn't require much care. It grows quickly. The fruits, while not always the perfect size, are perfectly suitable for home use. The only drawback is that they need to be well covered for the winter, otherwise the fruit buds can freeze.
Igor, 55 years old, Krasnodar.
I've been growing peaches for a long time, and the Kremlevskiy variety has become one of my favorites. The fruit is delicious. I especially liked that it's self-fertile, so you don't need to worry about pollinators. However, there are some downsides: the fruit doesn't travel well in transit, so I tend to process it or eat it right away.
Alina, 37 years old, Yekaterinburg.
The Kremlin peach has proven to be quite demanding. It begins bearing fruit early, but due to its unpredictable winter hardiness, I have to carefully tend to it during the cold season. The fruit is tasty, but it spoils quickly. This variety is good for those willing to invest in care and can provide the plant with the necessary conditions.

The Kremlin peach is a great addition to any garden, especially for those who appreciate tasty and juicy fruits. Its many characteristics make it an attractive choice for gardeners of all experience levels. To successfully grow it and obtain a high-quality harvest, it's important to consider its shortcomings. With proper care, it will reward you with bountiful harvests.

Frequently Asked Questions

What type of soil is optimal for growing Kremlin peach?

What rootstocks are compatible with this variety for grafting?

How often should a mature tree be watered during the dry season?

Which plant neighbors will increase peach yield?

Can it be grown in a container and how can I limit its growth?

What is the minimum winter temperature threshold without shelter?

Which organic fertilizers give the best results?

How to protect flowers from recurrent frosts?

What pests most often attack this variety?

How to properly shape the crown in the first 3 years?

How many years will it take for the tree to reach peak productivity?

Can the fruits be used for drying?

What is the spacing between trees when planting an orchard?

What fungicides are effective against leaf curl?

How much fruit should be left on a branch to prevent overload?

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